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The Kool-Aid in Koregaon Park

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The grift begins at nine

The Welcome Centre at the Osho International Meditation Resort in Pune is an open-air affair, a series of low wooden benches, arranged in lines as at a bus station, besides a little manmade pond on the edge of which sits a Buddha statue, mute, still, and beatific. When I arrived a little before nine in the morning, only two other men, both Indian, were waiting. The three of us wore civilian garb. It was clear from the outset that the resort is something of an oasis, even in Koregaon Park, which is itself something of an oasis in the broader context of Pune. The word that came to mind, as I looked beyond the pond through the trees at the figures milling about in maroon robes, was lush, or, perhaps, moneyed.

One of my fellow would-be sannyasins made the mistake of taking a photograph of the pond. Moments later, a blonde Dutchwoman, somewhere in her early sixties and dressed entirely in maroon, appeared out of nowhere and asked him, not so politely, to delete it. Then she turned to me.

I was there to do research for the novel. One of my three protagonists, Catherine, comes to Pune after attending a hen’s party in Goa and gets her arm bent into visiting the ashram. But when the woman, Vayu, asked me what I was doing there, I simply said that I wanted a day pass, which was also true. She asked if I had ever meditated before and I said that I hadn’t, but that I had seen some of the Osho meditations online. This was also true, but only in a vague sense. I had seen some of the more confrontational passages from Wolfgang Dobrowolny’s Ashram in Poona, which are excerpted in Maclain and Chapman Way’s Wild, Wild Country, as well as some more genteel stuff on the ashram-turned-resort’s Instagram account.

Vayu, which is obviously not her real or legal name, led me to a computer and began the registration process. My photo was taken the way photos are taken at passport control the world over, and, indeed, I did feel a little, in that moment, as though I were entering a sovereign microstate. Once upon a time, this process included an HIV test. I’m not sure whether this has been discontinued, or whether it’s no longer required for day-tripping rubberneckers like

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