Oh cod beyond all praising — the secret sauce that keeps parish fish fries afloat

The Fish Friar at St. John the Baptist Parish in Fort Calhoun, Nebraska, can’t hear confessions and doesn’t live in a religious community.

But he’s happy to have a beer with visitors to the parish – that is, after he’s done with his fish frying duties for the evening.

“There are people who actually think I am a real priest,” said Mike Conrad, the parish “fish friar.”

And it’s no surprise – Conrad does don a Franciscan friar costume for the parish’s famous fish fries each Lent.

He’ll tell visitors, Conrad told The Pillar: “If you need to go to confession, we go across the street. I can’t absolve you, but I can have a drink with you afterwards.”

The Lenten fish fries at St. John the Baptist have become legendary. A 30-year-old tradition, they attracted some 500 people a night when they first began.

Now, they see an average of 1,200 people per night – in a town of just 1,100 people.

“We get people from all over,” Conrad said. “It’s a good time. We get them in the door, they’re able to socialize. They could have a beer or two, maybe three or four, whatever they do, eat as much fish as they want. But they come out, they’re usually in groups and the groups gather together and it’s like an outing and people really seem to enjoy it.”

Why is the fish fry at St. John the Baptist so popular? Maybe it’s the decades-long reputation for drawing a vibrant crowd, or the fresh ingredients, or the affordable price point (all-you-can-eat for $15).

But whatever it is that keeps people coming back, the people running the event – including dinner and a raffle – know it takes a lot of work. The parish itself is small, with only about 200 families.

About half of the volunteers at St. John the Baptist’s fish fries are not parishioners, but they are dedicated to continuing a tradition that has become beloved by Catholics and nonCatholics alike.

“We also have people [volunteering] that aren’t part of our community,” Conrad said. “They come and they work. They enjoy the camaraderie and the opportunity to come out and see people. Our volunteers look forward to the fish fry.”

A doorway into parish life

Fish fries have long been a